MACRO PHOTOGRAPHY USING EXTENSION TUBES:

selective focus photo of white petaled flower
Photo by Ithalu Dominguez on Pexels.com

EXTENSION TUBES ARE AMAZING TOOLS FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS:

How convenient would it be if you could use your regular lens to take close up shots of subjects just as if it were a macro lens? While macro lenses are perfect for close-up images, they can be expensive for someone who doesn’t do much macro photography. This is where an extension tube can be of help.

The nice thing about extension tubes is that no optics are used in extension tubes. If you worry about degrading your image quality, you don’t have to worry with extension tubes.

YOU DON’T LOSE QUALITY OR HAVE TO SPEND A LOT

Because extension tubes have no optics in them, the quality of your photo is as good as the lens you are using. If you have a good quality normal zoom lens, or even a standard lens, as long as it’s good quality your photo will be just as good.

EXTENSION TUBES USUALLY COME IN 3 DIFFERENT SIZES.

When you look at buying an extension tube, they generally come in a set of 3. Each tube can be used separately, or all 3 tubes together.

Extension tubes generally come in groups of 3, so you can get different magnifications with the different tubes.

The other thing to know is that extension tubes can either be automatic or manual. There are extension tubes that are just tubes. You can still get magnification using this tube, but you have no control with autofocus or aperture settings.

The best extension tubes will have the connections to allow your lens to still use autofocus, and aperture connections. This is what I recommend, and it will give you the ability to control that depth of field. That is really important when doing macro work.

The camera manufacture, of course, makes their own extension tubes, but there are other brands that make extension tubes for your camera. Remember that there is no optics involved in extension tubes, so you don’t have to worry about degrading the quality of your photo with extension tubes. So, in this case, I don’t have a problem recommending a good 3rd party extension tube.

To make this complete, we are including some good extension tubes for sale here:

extension-tubes

EXTENSION TUBES FOR CANON EF CAMERAS

Auto-Focus Macro Lens Extension Tube Set (12mm, 20mm, 36mm Length) for Canon EF/EF-S Mount Lenses n DSLR Camera 5D2 5D3 5D4 6D 7D 70D 80D 700D 760D 1300D T7 T6i T5i Regular: $99 for all 3 tubes

$65.00

Canon-Eos-extension-tubes

EXTENSION TUBES FOR CANON EOS CAMERAS

Auto Focus Extension Tube Set for Canon EOS 90D 80D 70D 60D 77D Rebel T6 T7 T5 T8i T7i T6i T6s T5i T4i SL3 SL2 EOS 6D Mark II 7D Mark II 5D Mark IV III 5Ds R 1Dx Mark III and More Regular: $150 US dollars

$95.00

extension-tubes-1

EXTENSION TUBES FOR NIKON D SERIES CAMERAS

Auto Focus Macro Extension Tube Set for Nikon D850 D750 D780 D3500 D3400 D7500 D7200 D7100 D7000 D5600 D5500 D5300 D5200 D5100 D5000 D3300 D3200 D3100 D800 D810 D700 D610 D600 D500 & More Regular price: $149.95 US Dollars

$99.99

extension-tubes-2

EXTENSION TUBES FOR NIKON Z MOUNT CAMERAS

Auto Focus Macro Extension Tube Set for Nikon Z50 Z fc Zfc Z7 Z6 Z5 Z6 II Z6II Z7 II Z7II Mirrorless Camera and Nikon Z Mount Lenses, Great Tool for Macro Photography Regular price: $129.95

$69.99

Canon-Eos-extension-tubes-1

EXTENSION TUBES FOR FUJI X MOUNT CAMERAS

Auto Focus Macro Extension Tube Set for Fuji Fujifilm X-T3 X-T4 X-T2 X-T1 X-S10 X-T30 X-T20 X-T10 X-T200 X-T100 X-H1 X-PRO3 X-PRO2 X-E4 X-E3 X-E2S X-A7,Replaces Fujifilm MCEX-11 & MCEX-16 Regular $99.95 US dollars

$64.95

extension-tubes-3

EXTENSION TUBES FOR MICRO 4/3 MOUNT CAMERAS (PANASONIC AND OLYMPUS)

Micro 4/3 Auto Focus Macro Extension Tube Set for Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III E-M5 E-M10 Mark III E-M1X Pen E-PL10 E-PL9 Pen-F,Panasonic Lumix G9 G7 G85 G95 GX85 GX9 GX8 GX7 GH6 GH5 GH5S GH4 & More Regular $99.95

$64.95

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PART 3 – FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY OUTDOORS

Using flash outdoors is a great idea. Photo courtesy of Shutterbug.

AMBIENT LIGHT PLUS FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY MAKES FOR A BETTER PHOTO:

By using the flash, I’m able to highlight the shadow areas and avoid shadows under the subject’s eyebrows, thus making it a better photo than it would have been without flash. But this does not mean that the image will turn up flat. Make sure you get your reading right.

Photo by A&A Photography; ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/200-second exposure.

LET’S TRY 2 EXAMPLES OF HOW TO DO THIS:

1. Say you’re taking photos of a couple in park under shade with a sunlit background:

  • Shoot in manual mode, because you need to be in control of your exposure metering for accuracy and consistency.
  • Meter for the ambient light, get your exposure right, turn off your flash, and take a test shot. With the correct exposure you will get a perfect natural surroundings but the wedding couple will be little underexposed or have some shadows around their faces.
  • Now turn on your flash and adjust your flash to TTL-BL mode which balances flash automatically with ambient light (as I’m using Nikon). Adjust your flash compensation. Start from 0 EV compensation and slowly go up until plus 1.7 EV. How much is enough? There is no one correct answer to that as it depends how much flash you need to use as a fill in flash. In this example you surely need a stronger fill-flash to match the sunlit background.

2. Say you are taking photos of the bride outdoors:

  • Again always shoot in manual mode.
  • Meter correctly for the available light.
  • Adjust your flash to TTL-BL mode. As for outdoors, I usually start from -1.3 EV because Nikon Speedlights on TTL-BL mode balance flash automatically with ambient light and I will always shoot with flash firing straight on. The real idea is to use the flash as a fill-light only and to lift the shadows.
Photo by Dennis van Zuijlekom; ISO 50, f/2.8, 1/200-second exposure.

The above two examples tell you that by just adding flash with the correct exposure set by reading the ambient light. Together with the right amount of flash value, you will have a perfect and balance natural looking image. Who says flash will look unnatural and spoil the ambient light?

WATCH THIS VIDEO TO HELP UNDERSTANDING OF FLASH OUTDOORS:

This is the best explanation of flash photography being used outdoors.

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Contributors to this blog today:

  • Affendy Ahmad.
  • Mike Smith

7 IDEAS OF HOW TO USE FLASH TO MAKE YOUR PHOTOS BETTER:

Bouncing the light off the ceiling with your flash will give you nicer results.

A lot of beginner photographers make the mistake of assuming that a flash is used to add light when shooting in conditions where the light is insufficient. Well, this is only partially true. In fact, you can use flash even in situations where there’s enough natural light. Using a flash allows you to add a certain “pop” to your image that is not possible when only using natural light.

In this blog today, we want to go over the details of how to use flash effectively even if you don’t think you need to use flash. There are situations where using your flash will improve your photo immensely.

As I did in the previous blog, I found a video that explained how to understand the basics of flash photography. In today’s video I will post this great video on different ways to use flash to make your everyday photography look better.

7 Quick and EASY Flash Photography Tips

A common mistake a lot of beginner photographers make is to turn the flash head directly towards the subject. This has a lot of undesired effects. It creates unflattering hotspots and harsh shadows, and makes the image appear unnatural. As Joy demonstrates in the video, there are a lot of ways you can overcome this.

“Flash is not just about adding more light to your photo. It’s about molding the light to your photo.”

Vanessa Joy

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MORE IDEAS OF HOW TO USE YOUR FLASH:

A lot of beginner photographers make the mistake of assuming that a flash is used to add light when shooting in conditions where the light is insufficient. Well, this is only partially true. In fact, you can use flash even in situations where there’s enough natural light. Using a flash allows you to add a certain “pop” to your image that is not possible when only using natural light. In this context, today we have professional wedding and portrait photographer Vanessa Joy with Adorama who shares seven tips on how you can use flash to take better images:

MORE IDEAS OF HOW TO USE YOUR FLASH:

The idea is to think of a way to make the light source as big as possible. Joy shares a ton of ways you can do that. Starting from the bare minimum, you can use the small diffusion cover that a speedlight comes with. Or, you can also use a small white card to bounce the light indirectly toward the subject. For better results, use a reflector to bounce the flash towards the subject. You’ll instantly see how much better the images come out.

In cases where you need to use flash indoors, the task is even easier. Just look for neutral-colored walls or ceilings and turn your flash head in that direction. The entire wall or ceiling acts as a huge light source and bounces off soft light, resulting in flattering images.

Joy also shares some interesting ways you can introduce colors to your images using flash and gels. And if you’re someone who loves to take portraits during golden hours, be sure to watch till the end. You’ll get to see how you can create your own golden sun using flash and gels.

Bounce flash diffuser

If you watched the video, you will know the value of this piece. This allows you to have bounce flash in areas where you can’t bounce your light off the wall or ceiling.

$29.95

Softbox attachment for flash for Canon, Nikon bounce flashes

As seen on the video, this is another tool that just helps you to spread the light all around the subject and a nicer diffused light on the subject.

$29.95

Electronic slave flash

A slave flash is a flash that will fire when another flash is fired. This will get some special effects that will allow you to shoot two flashes at the same time. A photographers great tool

$74.95

FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY FOR 2022

Photo by Tom Pumford on Unsplash

In all the blogs I have done, I have not done much in flash photography. And there is a true art to using flash on your camera, that I don’t want people to think they don’t need to use flash. There are things that you can do with flash photography that will greatly improve your photos, as well as allow you to do things you couldn’t do before.

THIS WILL BE A 3 PART SERIES ON FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY

To make sure we cover flash photography well, this is going to be a 3 part series. This will be the first part, the basics of flash photography. Once you learn the technical aspects of flash photography, you can already see the different creative things you can do with flash photography.

A VIDEO SEEMS TO BE THE BEST WAY TO DESCRIBE FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY

I have chosen to use a video to show you the basics of how flash photography works. Watch this video several times if you don’t get it the first time. Once you capture the beauty of how wonderful flash photography is, you will become a master in “flash photography”

Remember if you have questions about this subject, watch the next tutorial in the next blog, coming in 2 days. Once you get through the whole course, you will be able to ask questions if you still have any.

UNDERSTANDING THE NEED FOR A POLARIZING FILTER

THE POLARIZING FILTER!

One of the most valuable pieces of equipment you can own, to take magnificent landscape photos.

Learn how this works in this article:

All great photographers know the value of a polarizing filter. It magically makes the scenery photos come alive with their natural color. When seeing the differences of before and after photos, you will know right away how important this one accessory can be.

JUST WHAT IS POLARIZED LIGHT?

Trying to find an easy way to describe polarized light has been challenging to say the least. But, I like this definition of polarized light, that maybe we can all understand why we need this filter:

The light tends to move more uniformly rather than scattering all over the place, and it comes at you horizontally or vertically. This is polarized light, which we experience as glare, according to the American Academy of Ophthalmology.

ACO

IN PHOTOGRAPHY, WE HAVE A POLARIZING FILTER TO CURE THIS PROBLEM:

The standard polarizer filter will just screw in to the front of your lens. It is mounted on a ring that you can rotate the filter to get the best optimization of the polarized light.

EXAMPLES OF WHEN TO USE THIS FILTER:

Winter photos will be so much better with a polarizer filter

EXAMPLE 1

Note: as you look at the above photo, how much bluer the skies are, but the snow is also more detailed because the reflections that are on the snow are gone. Polarizing filters eliminate anything that reflects light, except for metal. There is dust floating in the sky, and the polarizing filter cuts out all the reflections off the dust particles, and that’s why the skies are more vivid in color.

Want to get better detail under the water, then use a polarizing filter

EXAMPLE #2

The above example shows how well the polarizing filter will work shooting through water. Reflections are cut off the surface, and thus you get better detail through the water.

Using polarizing filters for portraits? YES, it’s an amazing how well they turn out.

EXAMPLE 3

Most faces have a certain amount of oil on the skin, and the polarizing filter cuts through those reflections and give you amazing skin tones.

Like the above winter photo, look what a polarizing filter will do to your scenery photo

EXAMPLE 4

In a regular sunny day, the landscape will have reflections on all green things, the sky, the clouds, the roads, etc. Use a polarizing filter for all your scenery photos.

Closeup of how the polarizing filter acts on plants. This would include trees, grass, shrubs, flowers, etc.

EXAMPLE 5

I love this photo because it shows in great detail the reflections on leaves. Now eliminate the reflections with your polarizing filter, and you have beautiful green foliage. And this includes all foliage and grass.

NOW YO CAN SEE HOW IT WORKS

The above diagram shows exactly how it works. Keep in mind these 2 things:

1- The filter has a dark grey color to it, and cuts the light coming down to your sensor by half. You should buy a “circular polarizer” and then your light meter reading should still be accurate.

2- If you are trying to keep a certain Fstop to create the right depth of field in your photo, you may need to adjust your ISO on your camera to compensate for the drop in light coming through your lens.

You can pick up a polarizing filter from your favorite camera store. Some are made of better glass that the others, so don’t buy the cheapest filter. The better the glass, the better your photo. I am not going to endorse any filter brands on this blog, but, just let it be known, that you shouldn’t spend the least amount on this filter.

For more detailed information about a polarizing filter and other accessories, go to: https://123photogo.com/complete-photo-courses/


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NOW, YOU CAN ORDER TIFFEN BRAND POLARIZING FILTERS HERE: JUST ORDER THE SIZE THAT FITS YOUR LENS. NOT SURE WHERE TO LOOK? LOOK AT THE BACK OF YOUR LENS CAP. THAT WILL TELL YOU THE SIZE TO ORDER.

POLARIZING FILTERS FOR SALE:

Select product to view

49mm-pola

49mm Tiffen polarizing filter

Tiffen 49mm polarizing filter for the best way to improve your photos.

$34.95


49mm-pola-1

52mm Tiffen polarizing filter

One of the best filters you can buy! Tiffen 52mm polarizing filter.

$39.95


49mm-pola-2

55mm Polarizing filter by Tiffen

Tiffen 55mm Polarizing filter, to improve your photos.

$42.95


49mm-pola-3

58mm Tiffen Polarizing filter

58mm Polarizing Filter, for the best way to improve your photos.

$48.95


49mm-pola-4

62mm polarizing filter by Tiffen

Tiffen 62mm polarizing filter to improve your photos naturally.

$48.95


49mm-pola-5

67mm Tiffen Polarizing filter

Tiffen 67mm polarizing filter to vastly improve your photos naturally.

$50.00

ZOOM LENS, OR SEVERAL LENSES?

Photo by Joshua Hoehne on Unsplash

Zoom lens vs. several lenses has been a question a lot of photographers go through. For example, should you buy a 75-300 Zoom lens, OR 100mm Macro lens, a 85mm F1.2 lens, and a 300mm F2.8? When you look at the combinations there, it’s a matter of numbers and what they all mean. Let’s go through them:

WHAT DO ALL THOSE NUMBERS MEAN?

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

MM OF THE LENS?

First, we are going to go through each set of numbers on a lens and tell you what the meaning of each is. Seems that these numbers mean something. And the first number we will talk about is the millimeter of the lens. Let’s start with a reference number:

The first number we need to know is the “normal lens millimeter”. In today’s digital camera lenses, a 28mm is about the closest thing to a normal lens. What is a normal lens? It’s about the same thing as what your eye sees. So, if you had a normal 28mm lens on your camera, you picked it up and looked through the camera lens, what you see looks about the same whether you look through the camera, or view the subject without a camera and lens. There seems to be no change in strength or wide angle. With that being a normal lens, then something that is double the magnification would be a 56mm lens. So, now the subject is closer by double, or 2X closer.

Telephoto lenses:

Telephoto lens and also a zoom lens

There is a couple of things to notice as you use a telephoto lens. 1- Your angle of view in the lens also decreases by half, the bigger the lens. For example: if you go to a 56mm lens, the amount of area you see in your lens vs. the normal lens is now cut in half. But, the advantage, of course, when you use a telephoto lens, is that the subject is closer to you by 2X.

If you went to a 112mm lens (although they don’t make a lens with that mm), you double the magnification again by 2X from the 56mm, or 4X closer than your normal lens.

Now, you can see what happens when you go to a lens that is 300mm. That is a little over 10X stronger than your normal lens or what you see with the naked eye.

And lenses get bigger than that, of course. And guess what the next problem is with a big lens? It is hard to hand hold a lens that has that kind of magnification. So, most lenses that are around 300mm or bigger, have a tripod mount, right on the lens.

As you can see on this big lens, there is a tripod mount on the bottom of the lens. That is a balance point for the weight of the lens and the camera. That is the place that is usually makes it balanced well.

WIDE ANGLE LENSES:

Back to our reference point of 28mm: if we go the other direction, say 28mm and go to a 14mm lens, you do the opposite of the telephoto lens. It tends to look like the image in the camera has been pushed way back away from you. It is 1/2X power. But, the reason people pick up wide angle lenses is that it shows more area in the lens. You see twice as much angle in this wide angle as you do with the normal lens. Ideal for scenery and landscape photos.

ZOOM LENSES:

A zoom lens is a lens that is configured to give you a variety of lenses, all in one lens.

An 18-300mm zoom lens

If you look closely at this zoom lens, you will see a ring that goes from 18mm to 300mm. That means this one lens, has an 18mm lens in it. A wide angle lens. 28mm can be dialed in as well, so you have a normal lens. And now it goes up to 300mm, which is a powerful telephoto lens. All of this in one lens. One lens takes care of almost all of your photographic needs.

OR DOES IT?

Let’s take a look at our model lens again:

This model lens here is also a zoom lens, but, it covers only the area in the wide angle area: a 10 -18mm lens. That is super wide. Let’s look at the other number we need to be aware of: It says: 1: 4.5 – 5.6! If you remember how your aperture works in a lens, they will sometimes go from 3.5 – 5.6 for your kit lens. That is the maximum the aperture will range from at the biggest opening. The aperture is what lets in so much light. The lower the number, the more light gets through the lens. That is the number they put on the lens so you can see that it doesn’t really let in much light, but, not bad.

That is the problem with a zoom lens. It has this moving lens system within the barrel of the lens, that takes away the amount of light getting through the lens. If you could buy a zoom lens with a smaller F number, like a 2.8, you would also have double the amount of actual glass, or more. And the cost goes way up.

LENSES WITH LOW APERTURE NUMBERS:

The above lens here is a Canon 100mm F2.8 macro lens. List price on this lens is: $1399.00 US dollars.

The above lens here is a zoom lens that goes from 75mm – 300mm, and it’s low aperture capability is F 4.5 -5.6, meaning that at 75mm the aperture is at F4.5, and at 300mm it is 5.6. It does have a 100mm in this lens, but at 100mm it has an aperture capability of around 4.7. The list price of this lens is: $249.95US dollars.

WHY SO MANY CAMERA LENSES?

HERE IS THE COMPLETE LENS SELECTION FROM CANON. ALL OTHER MANUFACTURES HAVE ABOUT THE SAME NUMBER OF LENSES.

Every lens the manufacture makes is done for a specific purpose. That 100mm f2.8 macro lens’ purpose is to do extreme close-ups that not any other lens can do, plus, with a maximum aperture of 2.8, it is capable of doing it in lower light than any other lens that Canon makes.

SO HOW DO I CHOOSE WHAT LENS I NEED?

When you finally get to a point of getting a new lens, then it will be easily decided by what type of photography you are going to do. If you need help in getting the right lens, then get with someone who can help you. This is a service that 123PhotoGo can provide.

If you ever have a personal question about what lens you should buy, or even what camera you want to buy, I have set up a personal email hotline to ask questions. Email me to ask any technical questions you have by going to: question.123photogo@gmail.com

AS A PHOTOGRAPHER, THIS IS SOMETHING YOU SHOULD HAVE:

If you are the type of photographer that likes to just plan on a “Photo Day” to go out and just take pictures in the beautiful landscape around you, then there is one thing that you should always take with you. And that would be a set of close-up filters.

If you are going out to take photos of wildlife, then this set of close-up filters should be part of your camera equipment.

If you are going out to take some portraits, or wedding photos, then you should take a set of close-up filters with you.

Close-up filters are amazingly good quality now. I have found I use a set quite often. It certainly is less expensive than a whole new macro lens. To but a set, like you see above, all you need is the filter size when you order them.

WHY SHOULD I CARRY THESE WITH ME ALWAYS?

The world of close-ups is beautiful. And to miss some of the opportunities that are around you would be devastating. It’s part of “LEARNING TO SEE” a photo. But, also, what if you go to take some photos of wildlife, and the opportunities just don’t come. Now is when you pull out the close-up filters and become a “flower Photographer” instead of a wildlife photographer. And the same thing is for the “landscape photographer”. Look around and see the beauty around you in the close-up world.


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WHAT CAN I DO WITH CLOSE-UPS AT A WEDDING OR A PORTRAIT SESSION?

Here is some great ideas for people photos and close-ups:

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WHAT SHOULD BE YOUR NEXT LENS TO PURCHASE?

shallow focus photography of brown mushrooms
Photo by Johannes Plenio on Pexels.com

I recently saw an article that talked about the 5 best lenses to have as a photographer. I read through the article and totally think the author missed the point of what you should buy next. Let’s take a look at what I think, and then you may make comments below.

Chances are you may have your favorite camera, and you bought it in a kit. So, you have something like an 18-55mm lens to start off with. This particular lens is a great lens to start off with. It encompasses wide angle, normal, and small telephoto all in one lens.

Then you start learning your camera, you start shooting a variety of things. Then you realize that one thing, whether it be portraits, macro, landscape, pets, or whatever, you really seem to be good at and you start taking more of those types of photos. That is how you develop into a photographer with a talent for shooting your favorite subject.

EVOLVING INTO THE NEED FOR MORE:

As you learn the subject you like to take pictures of, you will find that you need another lens. Let’s take a look at what would be your next lens with certain subjects.

1- Close up photography:

If you find that you like close-up photography, and find the close-up world fascinating, you will wish that you could get even closer. The first lens you should consider buying then, would be the MACRO LENS! This lens will allow you to get even closer to your subjects, and do amazing photos like this:

blade of grass blur bright close up
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Look at the lens choices for macro lenses from your camera manufacture. You may see 4 different macro lenses for your camera. What is the difference?

  • 35mm Ff2.8 macro lens – This is an all around good macro lens, and will work great. The nice thing about this particular lens is that it is probably the cheapest lens.
  • 35mm F1.8 macro lens – This one is the same as the above lens, but, it will let in more light (F1.8). In fact, looking at the two lenses side by side, this lens has almost twice the amount of glass, to let you take photos in lower light.
  • 85mm F2 Macro lens – A significant jump in millimeter. And it will let you take close-ups of bugs, flowers, without getting so close.
  • 100mm F2.8 macro – This is like the 85mm, only you get to move back even further to get your subject. This is the ideal bug lens. You won’t scare too many bugs away if that’s what you want to take pictures of.
2- PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY:

Some people have a talent for taking great portraits. And you will find out that the “kit lens” is not cutting it. You want to take great portraits, but, don’t want to be in the person’s face. You will be looking at the following lenses:

portrait of a handsome man with muscular body
Photo by emre keshavarz on Pexels.com
  • The usual one that most portrait photographers will get is the 85mm lens. And that could come with a variety of F numbers, or aperture openings. But, 2.8 I think would be sufficient.
  • The next one you might try, is a zoom lens, or a variable millimeter lens. Say the 70-200mm lens might be a good one. This will let you get a variety of photos from different angles, without being in their face.
3- LANDSCAPE OR SCENERY PHOTOGRAPHY:

Here again, the kit lens you have you will feel it is not enough. How do you get those wide vistas, the complete scenery that you see? With a wide angle lens. Sure you have a bit of a wide angle to your kit lens, but, a real wide angle lens will get you what you need.

  • Almost all camera manufactures have something like a 14-24mm lens which will do the best job. Looking through your wide angle lens could give you goose-bumps once you see what it will do for you.
There’s a lot of subjects we could cover, but for the majority of photographers, these 4 subjects should help you the most in deciding what lenses to look for first.
SPORTS PHOTOGRAPHY:

The one thing that sports photographers want is a big lens that will get them a close-up of the action shots. You will often see sports photographers along the sidelines, with their cameras on a tripod, or monopod, and the lens looks HUGE!

A typical outfit for a Sports Photographer

Nothing is more exciting than to be down on the sidelines with the other sports photographers, and your huge lens, and camera with a high speed motor drive.

  • The lens you see in the photo above is a lot of money. But, if that’s what you want to do, then you will find a way to get this lens. Let’s look at a few:

So be prepared when you go for these special sports lenses. This is the Sony 200-600mm lens, that is used a lot. Tried to find the lowest price, and Amazon’s price is: $2099.00 for this lens outfit.

This 800 mm F5.6 lens from Canon is just the key. And you can purchase this lens on a payment plan of $1016.67 for 12 months or one time purchase of $12,200.00 US Dollars.

So, if this is a field of photography you want to get in, see if you can get a sponsor who has money to help you out with this. And don’t get a cheap tripod for this either (notice the tripod mount on the lens, not the camera body).

CONCLUSION:

Your next lens purchase will be the lens that is desired by the subject of photography you want to specialize in. If you can get in to a real camera store that has these lenses you can look through, this might just make more sense.