If you’re like us, your bucket list is never truly complete. Tallying the destinations you’d like to travel to someday is a task that’s both fun and never-ending — and one that’s made infinitely more enjoyable by receiving recommendations from others.
That’s why we took to asking Travel + Leisure’s A-List — our collection of the world’s top travel advisors — to see where they think we should go. Collectively, they cover every inch of the globe, helping to craft one-of-a-kind itineraries for passionate travelers.
From kicking back in an overwater bungalow in Bora Bora to glimpsing the out-of-this-world sands of Chile’s Atacama desert, here are 13 destinations T+L A-List advisors think you should add to your bucket list.
LONG EXPOSURE PHOTOGRAPHY, ONCE UNDERSTOOD, CREATES, PROBABLY, THE MOST DESIRABLE PHOTOGRAPHY THAT MOST PEOPLE LOVE. IT’S DREAMY, IT’S BEAUTIFUL, IT JUST CATCHES PEOPLE’S ATTENTION TO THE BEAUTY AROUND US EVEN MORE. AND THIS ARTICLE DONE BY “DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY SCHOOL” IS AMAZING. CHECK THIS OUT:
Learning about Neutral Density Filters and how you can use them to slow down the shutter speed was a big turning point in my landscape photography. I instantly fell in love with the soft and dream-like feeling I was able to achieve – it was like giving life to my not-so-interesting images.
I’ve learned a lot since that day, and while I don’t only do Long Exposure Photography anymore, it’s still an important part of my work and it’s something my students often like learning about. After all, it has the power to instantly transform an otherwise standard image into something more fascinating.
As with anything else, it takes a lot of practice to master a subject but I want to help you on the way by sharing some crucial tips that will make life just a little easier.
There weren’t a whole lot of articles and tutorials to study when I started exploring with Neutral Density filters. This meant that it took a bit of struggle to find a solution to some of the mistakes I made. One of the things I simply couldn’t figure out was why all my images with a 10-stop filter were blurry…
After some back and forth I understood that it was because I used autofocus.
Remember that a 10-Stop ND Filter is essentially a piece of black glass. Try looking through it with your eyes when the sun is low on the sky and I’ll bet you can barely see anything. This is the case for the camera as well. Most cameras aren’t able to properly set the focus when dark ND Filters are used – just as they aren’t able to automatically focus at night.
The solution is to switch over to manual focus. I know this sounds tedious to some of you but here’s an easy workaround if you prefer autofocus:
Since you switched to manual focus, the camera isn’t going to try to focus after you attach the ND filter; instead, it’s keeping the focus you set.
Note: Remember to repeat the process when you’re changing compositions and to switch back to autofocus when you’re done using the filters.
The biggest frustration I’ve ever had when working with long exposures was the mysterious purple glow that appeared in the center of my images.
It turned out that this is caused by light leaking through the viewfinder and the solution is quite simple: cover it up!
Some professional DSLR cameras have a built-in ‘curtain’ that you can close by flipping a small switch next to the viewfinder. If your camera doesn’t have this, I recommend using a piece of cardboard to place in front of the viewfinder.
It’s also possible to purchase covers custom made for your camera.
Now it should be said that these light leaks don’t always occur. It’s most common when:
I’d still make it a habit to cover the viewfinder whenever you’re using a shutter speed of 20 seconds or more.
One of the biggest challenges you’re going to experience when experimenting with Neutral Density filters and slow shutter speeds are getting razor sharp images. There are many factors that can result in the images being unsharp; one of the most common is camera shake.
The maximum shutter speed of most DSLR cameras is 30 seconds. In order to use a shutter speed longer than this, you need to use a function called ‘Bulb’. In Bulb mode, the image is being captured for as long as the shutter button is pressed.
You can imagine (and try if you don’t believe me!) that manually pressing the shutter button for one or two minutes is going to cause a significant amount of vibration to the camera. What does that lead to? Blurry images.
A remote shutter is absolutely essential in this case. You can find a cheap version but I recommend a remote shutter that has:
Long Exposure Photography is a lot of fun and it’s a great way to improve your understanding of how the camera fundamentals (ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed) work together. Since we’re working with shutter speeds of up to several minutes there are many factors that might result in failure but the results can be mesmerizing.
The tips I’ve shared in this article gives the solution to some of the most common obstacles and I hope they will remove some frustration for you. If you’d like to learn everything you need to know in order to capture beautiful images using slow shutter speed, be sure to take a look at my eBook ‘The Ultimate Guide to Long Exposure Photography‘.
Here are a few more photos showing Long Exposure photography:
Many times as we start taking portraits outside, inside, doesn’t matter, we have to be really careful of making sure the subject we are taking is really the main subject in this photo. That is our job to make sure the background is blurred out, and the foreground is free of clutter as well. When we look in the viewfinder we need to look at more than the subject. What is in the background. If you can change it, then do it. If you can’t change, then you can change it by using depth of field. Can you do it with a cell phone camera? No, not usually. There are some cell phone cameras that are getting a bit more sophisticated that will let you change the depth of field, but, most people hardly know how to use that. But, those who have good DSLR cameras know, or should know that you can adjust the depth of field behind the subject by adjusting the aperture. I found a great article about how to take care of the the depth of field as you are working with your subject. The article was written by:
DANNY EITREIM for PICTURE/CORRECT
We’ve discussed showing less skin and using long sleeves on our models to avoid the viewer’s eye being pulled out of the frame. Why? We want all of the viewer’s attention to be focused on our subject. We want the subject to be the undisputed star of our photo.
Your background can also be a contributing–or detrimental factor. If we have a background that is too loud or busy, it can (and does) pull the eye away from the subject. The viewer’s eye is bouncing all over the place and rarely settles on our star. In fact, our star often becomes the background.
I frequently see this in senior portraits. The photographer is trying to make the senior look cool (Does anyone use the word cool anymore? I’m really dating myself.) and thinks that a wild backdrop will do the trick.
It doesn’t do the trick–and those are the photographers who are never able to capture the imagination of the senior–or more specifically the bill paying parents. And they are soon out of business.
While you DO want to have personal elements in a photo, they should all be there to support the image, not draw the eye away.
Often we will be shooting a large family grouping and with so many people AND a busy background, the individuals simply get lost. Use a plain, unfocused wash of color in the background to put the emphasis back on the group. People are going to look at the finished photo and say, “WOW, You did that?”
So for today, I’m recommending you use a less cluttered look in your photos. It will take the attention away from your background and put it onto your stars where it belongs.
Don’t forget the foreground – if it is cluttered, change it.
What if we are at a park and can’t change the background?
What is depth of field?
That’s when we start to consider depth of field. Here a simple and admittedly basic explanation of depth of field:
A lens can only sharply focus on one place at a time. This will give you a photo with perfect focus on one spot and acceptable focus for a little way in front and a little way behind. This area of acceptable focus is called the depth of field. The zone of sharpness varies by lens, focal distances and so on, but as a rule of thumb, you can think of the zone as being about 1/3 in front of the subject and 2/3 behind. That’s measured from the distance between the lens and the focal point.
Depth of field is how you get those gorgeous photos with the subject being shown sharp as a tack, yet the background is nothing but a total wash of unfocused color. It DOES force the viewer’s eye directly to our star.
Depending on your lenses and shooting distances, depth of field can vary widely. I’ve seen the depth of field go all the way to the horizon in landscapes–and I’ve seen a photo of a fly’s eye that was out of focus in both the front part and rear part of the eye.
Get out there today and experiment with your various lenses and shooting distances so you can master depth of field. It will be one of the most used concepts in your photo arsenal.
A few more photos showing great depth of field: