shallow focus photography of brown mushrooms
Photo by Johannes Plenio on Pexels.com

I recently saw an article that talked about the 5 best lenses to have as a photographer. I read through the article and totally think the author missed the point of what you should buy next. Let’s take a look at what I think, and then you may make comments below.

Chances are you may have your favorite camera, and you bought it in a kit. So, you have something like an 18-55mm lens to start off with. This particular lens is a great lens to start off with. It encompasses wide angle, normal, and small telephoto all in one lens.

Then you start learning your camera, you start shooting a variety of things. Then you realize that one thing, whether it be portraits, macro, landscape, pets, or whatever, you really seem to be good at and you start taking more of those types of photos. That is how you develop into a photographer with a talent for shooting your favorite subject.


As you learn the subject you like to take pictures of, you will find that you need another lens. Let’s take a look at what would be your next lens with certain subjects.

1- Close up photography:

If you find that you like close-up photography, and find the close-up world fascinating, you will wish that you could get even closer. The first lens you should consider buying then, would be the MACRO LENS! This lens will allow you to get even closer to your subjects, and do amazing photos like this:

blade of grass blur bright close up
Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

Look at the lens choices for macro lenses from your camera manufacture. You may see 4 different macro lenses for your camera. What is the difference?

  • 35mm Ff2.8 macro lens – This is an all around good macro lens, and will work great. The nice thing about this particular lens is that it is probably the cheapest lens.
  • 35mm F1.8 macro lens – This one is the same as the above lens, but, it will let in more light (F1.8). In fact, looking at the two lenses side by side, this lens has almost twice the amount of glass, to let you take photos in lower light.
  • 85mm F2 Macro lens – A significant jump in millimeter. And it will let you take close-ups of bugs, flowers, without getting so close.
  • 100mm F2.8 macro – This is like the 85mm, only you get to move back even further to get your subject. This is the ideal bug lens. You won’t scare too many bugs away if that’s what you want to take pictures of.

Some people have a talent for taking great portraits. And you will find out that the “kit lens” is not cutting it. You want to take great portraits, but, don’t want to be in the person’s face. You will be looking at the following lenses:

portrait of a handsome man with muscular body
Photo by emre keshavarz on Pexels.com
  • The usual one that most portrait photographers will get is the 85mm lens. And that could come with a variety of F numbers, or aperture openings. But, 2.8 I think would be sufficient.
  • The next one you might try, is a zoom lens, or a variable millimeter lens. Say the 70-200mm lens might be a good one. This will let you get a variety of photos from different angles, without being in their face.

Here again, the kit lens you have you will feel it is not enough. How do you get those wide vistas, the complete scenery that you see? With a wide angle lens. Sure you have a bit of a wide angle to your kit lens, but, a real wide angle lens will get you what you need.

  • Almost all camera manufactures have something like a 14-24mm lens which will do the best job. Looking through your wide angle lens could give you goose-bumps once you see what it will do for you.
There’s a lot of subjects we could cover, but for the majority of photographers, these 4 subjects should help you the most in deciding what lenses to look for first.

The one thing that sports photographers want is a big lens that will get them a close-up of the action shots. You will often see sports photographers along the sidelines, with their cameras on a tripod, or monopod, and the lens looks HUGE!

A typical outfit for a Sports Photographer

Nothing is more exciting than to be down on the sidelines with the other sports photographers, and your huge lens, and camera with a high speed motor drive.

  • The lens you see in the photo above is a lot of money. But, if that’s what you want to do, then you will find a way to get this lens. Let’s look at a few:

So be prepared when you go for these special sports lenses. This is the Sony 200-600mm lens, that is used a lot. Tried to find the lowest price, and Amazon’s price is: $2099.00 for this lens outfit.

This 800 mm F5.6 lens from Canon is just the key. And you can purchase this lens on a payment plan of $1016.67 for 12 months or one time purchase of $12,200.00 US Dollars.

So, if this is a field of photography you want to get in, see if you can get a sponsor who has money to help you out with this. And don’t get a cheap tripod for this either (notice the tripod mount on the lens, not the camera body).


Your next lens purchase will be the lens that is desired by the subject of photography you want to specialize in. If you can get in to a real camera store that has these lenses you can look through, this might just make more sense.




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We live in a technological world, where things change rapidly, and hopefully for the better. Just in the last year, this is what I see happening in the photography equipment:

  • Cameras are getting better faster now, than the cell cameras. The photos you take with the new generation cameras are way ahead of what they were just a few years ago.
  • It’s now so much easier to shoot without a flash, say for night photography or low light situation. Cameras are coming in with a settings for the ISO at 102,400! That is amazing.
  • With the new smaller digital cameras with interchangeable lenses, they are introducing are sharper, more colorful than any lens made before. Your photos are just sharper and more colorful than ever before. Have you noticed lenses from Sigma and others have lenses called: “Art” lenses. So good that they make things look so real, it has left people in shock.
  • Cell phone cameras are improving rapidly as well, but, realize their sensors still have to be small. They are limited to how well they can reproduce because of the size of the sensor. But, DSLR cameras, the sensors have always been big. And then to improve them to the point of 50.1MP, is astonishing.

Conclusion: This is probably a better time than ever to jump in to serious photography. Because things have improved so much that it makes photography fun.

Sony introduces the Sony A1!
Sony a1 Marries Stacked Sensor Tech With 50MP Capture | PCMag
New Sony A1 coming in Late February or March, coming in with a price tag of $6495.00 . Is this the new “Best Camera” out there?

Sony has announced a game-changing new camera, the Sony A1 – a 50.1MP, 8.6K camera capable of shooting bursts at up to a blistering 30fps, with 15 stops of dynamic range and real-time animal eye AF. 

Powered by a brand new stacked, back-illuminated Exmoor RS image sensor with integral memory, along with a Bionz XR processor, the Sony A1 can capture 50MP images at up to 30fps – with blackout-free shooting.

That huge sensor also supports 8K video, with up to 8.6K oversampling, and 4K video up to 120fps at 10-bit 4:2:2 All-I. In Super 35mm, 4K can be downsampled from 5.8K, with support for 10-bit S-Log 3 and 15-stop dynamic range. In addition, 16-bit RAW is supported over HDMI.

So, does the Sony A1 overheat as badly as the Canon EOS R5? According to Sony, it can record for a maximum of 30 minutes when filming in 8K or 4K 60p. 

The high resolution isn’t just limited to the sensor itself, though; the electronic viewfinder is every bit as cutting edge, boasting an astonishing 9.44 million dots and a refresh rate of up to 240fps. The resolution of the touchscreen isn’t yet confirmed, but it is a tilting screen rather than a fully articulating one.

The Sony A1 also introduces real-time Eye AF for birds, bolstered by the 759-point phase detect autofocus system with 92% coverage – which makes AF and AE calculations at up to 120 times per second.

To keep up with the lightning-fast 30fps frame-rate, the A1 boasts dual CFexpress Type A / UHS-II SD card slots, along with new anti-distortion shutter technology. Made possible by the super-quick readout of the new sensor, this combats the rolling shutter phenomenon when shooting electronically.

A cutting-edge camera deserves cutting-edge image formats, so the A1 will support HEIF, Light JPG, In-camera Crop and Lossless Compressed RAW. 

As you’d expect, the camera is also weather sealed and possesses 5.5 stops of in-body image stabilization. It also offers professional communication options, including FTP transfer, 1000 BASE-T LAN, and SuperSpeed 10Gbps USB 3.2.

Now, if all that technical jargon meant nothing to you, there is a few things on these specs that all people recognize, I think:

  • 50.1 Megapixel sensor. Yes, that is super sharp
  • Shooting speeds in bursts up to 30 frames per second.
  • The movies you make now with this camera are in 8K video. Super sharp and apparently some cameras overheated with shooting in that over a period of time, but, Sony’s has fixed that problem
  • 759 Points of autofocus. I remember when 13 was good.
  • I like this one: In-camera cropping. Sometimes you take a photo, and you have too much around the subject. So, in post processing you fixed it. Now you can do it inside your camera.
  • Camera body is weather sealed.
  • 5.5 Stops of image stabilization in the body. That’s the fastest yet.
  • Professional communication options. Why it might talk to you if you are lonely.

So, hope that helps you with the jargon we are all familiar with. More on this exciting camera coming up in the next couple of weeks.

Last, but not Least:

I discovered some amazing photos of winners of photography. Could you take these pictures? Study them and see if you can tell how they were taken:



Winner at the Florida Museum of natural history


Winners of the National Geographic Photo Contest 2011 - The Atlantic
National Geographic winner of 2011

Understanding the MM in your lenses, and what you might need:

When you first own your new dslr camera, most people buy it in a kit form, where it comes with one lens, strap, bag, camera, etc. And at first, most people don’t really understand all the numbers on their lenses. Today, I wanted to talk about 1 of the numbers on your lens, so that you understand it, what it can do, and what you might need next.

person holding film strip
35 mm film….. Photo by Markus Spiske on Pexels.com

Back when we had 35mm film, the standard lens was then: 50mm. What defines the standard lens, or what I liked to call it, the “normal” lens? When I worked at a camera store, the one thing we used to tell people was, “your 50 mm lens, is about the same as what your eye sees. We would take the camera with the 50mm lens, hold it up so the customer could look through the lens, then bring it down, and look with your eye at the same subject, and then back with the 50mm lens on the camera, and you found that the lens was the same as your eye, as far as magnification. There was none with the 50 mm lens.

Today we have the digital camera. And the 50mm lenses you had for your 35mm film cameras are just not the same. Every time you change the format of a camera, you change the “standard lens” or normal lens. So, the normal lens for a dslr camera is: approximately 28mm. Why would I say approximately? Because it depends on the format of your new digital camera’s sensor. Ha, you thought they were all the same, but, they are not. There is an APS-H sensor, An APS -C sensor, a FoveonX3 sensor, and a Four-thirds sensor. You would have to look at the specs of your camera to find out which one it was. But, the normal lens for a APS-H sensor, for example is roughly 30- 38 mm, where a normal lens for an APS-C sensor is: 25-32, and so on.

For sake of making things easy, let’s say all cameras’ normal lenses are 28mm. So, when you look through this 28mm lens, it looks about the same as what your eye sees: no magnification, just the same thing. Now, let’s play with this number:

Anything greater than this 28 mm, will be a telephoto lens. Everything smaller than the 28mm lens, will be a wide angle. Now, look at this:

A 56 mm lens (or closest to that number) is double the magnification of your normal lens (28mm). Or in other words, the 56mm lens will pull something that you would normally see, twice as close to you now.
Architectural Photography on M4/3 - 9-18mm vs OM 28mm with shift adapter:  Micro Four Thirds Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review
If 28mm lens is the new normal lens, then at 50mm (56mm is close enough), you also will lose the area that you would see, but, it would enlarge that area by double. And at 18 mm, or even 14mm, you would see twice the area as your normal lens.

Now, let’s look at other lenses. I have a lens that is 75-300mm. If we go by that magnification scale, it would be a lens that brings things closer by 3X to 9X magnification. At 300mm, that lens is now hard to handhold and get a sharp picture, unless I increase the shutter speed significantly. But, I have got used to putting my camera on a tripod when using this big lens.

Just for giggles: Olympus just announced a lens that will go from 300mm to 1000mm using the teleconverter it comes with.

The Olympus 300 – 1000mm lens is not for the faint of heart. The new super lens for sports and wildlife.
Focal Length and Angle of View — The Photo Video Guy

Notice in the diagram above, that by going from 28mm to 14mm you get twice the area in your image as the normal lens, even though the degrees of what you can see is going from 75 degrees to 114 degrees. Have you ever heard of a “Fish-eye” lens? Now, that is a super wide lens, and you get about a full 180 degree view. But, the lens may look like this:

Fisheye-Nikkor 6mm f/2.8 mounted on a Nikon F2 in the Nikon Museum.

You know what would make me nervous about using this lens, is you cannot protect the front element of your lens with a UV filter or Skylight filter. There is no way that it will fit.

The Squirrels 0048.jpg
And this is what your picture would look like with a fish-eye lens. A full 180 degrees. You can see the same sidewalk on both sides of the image.

Most camera manufactures today, make something called: A full-frame fish-eye lens:

Sigma 10 mm F2,8 EX DC HSM Fisheye.jpg
This is a “full Frame” fish-eye lens.
Image shot with a 16 mm full-frame fisheye lens before and after remapping to rectilinear perspective.

A 28mm, is your normal lens, anything larger in number is a telephoto. A telephoto pulls things closer to you, much like binoculars do, only this is a single lens, pulling the image closer to you. A 280mm lens is 10X magnification.

Anything of a smaller number than 28mm is a wide angle, meaning it gives you “more angle” in your lens, and by so doing, pushes it back further. So, a 14 mm, would, theoretically give you twice the angle as your normal lens, but pushes your main subject back twice as far in order to get that angle.

Tomorrow: we will talk a bit about those other numbers on lenses, and why some are very desirable to have.
A wide angle lens is usually the best for scenery or landscape photos.


Time is running out on getting purchases for your photographer in the family. We came up with a list of accessories that you can get ranging by prices. Hope this works magic for your Christmas

Items priced: $2.99 to $9.99:

Velaurs UV Lens Filter, Dustproof 37mm Camera Lens Accessories, 1.5 x 0.7in Improve The Clarity for 37mm Camera
First on our list of needful accessories: The UV Filter. Mostly used to protect the front lens, but, also serves to cut the UV coloring in the sky. Prices I have seen start at $1.49 each. Available at Amazon.com
Vastar Universal Smartphone Tripod Adapter Cell Phone Holder Mount Adapter, Fits iPhone, Samsung, and all Phones, Rotates ...
Amazing cell phone adapter for your tripod. Allows a cell phone to be placed on a tripod with this adapter. This is just $9.99 on Amazon.
Xinwoer 【𝐂𝐡𝐫𝐢𝐬𝐭𝐦𝐚𝐬 𝐃𝐞𝐚𝐥𝐬】 Universal Adjustable PU Leather Camera Shoulder Neck Strap Belt Photography Access...
Comfortable leather strap for your camera, and it’s adjustable. Available on Amazon for $1.49
Sponsored Ad - MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 6 PACK
6 pack of micro fiber cleaner cloths. A must for every photographer. Designed for the perfect lenses, and won’t scratch the lens. 6 pack: $8.99 on Amazon
SSE Basic Accessory Kit for Galaxy Gear VR. Includes Air Blaster Dust Blower + Microfiber Cleaning Cloth
Hurricane blower with lens cleaning cloth. Get that nasty dust off your lens by blowing on it with this squeeze blower. No more accidents spitting on your lens. Comes with a quality lens cloth: Just $3.99 on Amazon
ANGGREK Camera Shoulder Strap 12 Colors Photography Accessories Outdoor Portable Video Camera DSLR Shoulder Strap for Cano...
Wide camera strap with 12 colors. You won’t lose your camera with this brilliant camera strap. $4.49 on Amazon

$10.00 to $50.00:

Neewer Camera Case Backpack Waterproof Shockproof 12.2x5.5x14.6 inches Bag (Red Interior) for Canon,Nikon,Sony,Olympus,Pen...
Deluxe camera back pack for DSLR cameras and mirrorless cameras. Red interior. Only $39.99 on Amazon
Tripod, 60-Inch Camera Tripod Stand Aluminum for Photography Canon Nikon Sony with Fluid Head & Carry Bag, Lusweimi Video ...
Lightweight tripod with cell phone adapter and case: $34.99 at Amazon
Sponsored Ad - LED 10.2" Desktop Selfie Ring Light with Tripod Stand & Remote Control &10 Brightness Level & 3 Light Modes...
LED 10.2 inch selfie light with 3 levels of light, comes with tripod and remote control. This is the ideal system for those who are on YouTube, or any Social media. Just: $21.96 at Amazon

Lenses and accessories for lenses:

Funny Photography T-Shirt - Lens Size Matters
Lens Size Matters. Just $19.99 at Amazon
Understanding Close-Up Photography: Creative Close Encounters with Or Without a Macro Lens
The perfect book to learn about macro photography. Just $16.99 at Amazon
Sponsored Ad - Tiffen 52CP 52mm Circular Polarizer
Tiffen 52mm Circular Polarizer filter. Just $16.87 at Amazon
Beach Camera Nikon 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor Zoom Lens for Nikon Digital SLR (Renewed)
Nikon 55-300mm zoom lens. Check to see what lenses are made for your camera: This one: $359.00
Sponsored Ad - Rokinon 12mm F2.0 NCS CS Ultra Wide Angle Fixed Lens for Olympus and Panasonic Micro 4/3 (MFT) Mount Digita...
Rokinon 12mm wide angle lens for Panasonic and Olympus cameras. Just $249.00 at Amazon

This is just a sample of some of the great accessories available to camera owners. I invite you to look through the many different things available online. Amazon prices were quoted here, but, the local retailers are trying to compete with Amazon now, so you could physically go and hold, and see the different things for cameras.

passports camera battery charger watches and cables on brown wooden surface
Photo by Hiren Lad on Pexels.com
digital camera with different lenses on table
Photo by The Lazy Artist Gallery on Pexels.com
black canon camera
Photo by Athena on Pexels.com

Taking photos of Fog and mist:

If you have followed this blog site for a while, you will know that I love taking photos in the fog. The mood that it creates is unique, and besides, other people seem to like these photos too. Some parts of the country, during the cold winter air, there is fog almost every day. But, keep in mind that fog is damp, and you do have to take extra care of your camera. And also remember, that generally, this time of year if you have fog or mist, it is usually cold outside. Also remember that batteries don’t last as long in the cold, so, bring some spare batteries.

I also found a photographer that has written a great article about the important tips of shooting in the fog. Photographer Max Therry wrote a great article about shooting in the fog and mist. Check this out:

Taking beautiful images of mist and fog can be challenging, but it’s a skill worth learning. Fog and mist usually form during the night and are seen at their best in the early morning as the sun rises. Be prepared to get up early to catch the best shots!

Use Manual Focus

Manual Focus

Your autofocus will probably struggle in mist and fog. The reason being that autofocus needs to find differences in contrast to focus, and fog and mist don’t have a lot of contrast. You may struggle to focus on something even in manual—it can help to pre-focus to a set distance, or widen your depth of field by stopping your lens down.

Use a Tripod For Steady Shots

Use a Tripod

If you want to be certain of sharp images, use a tripod instead of hand-holding your camera. This will also help if you need to use slow shutter speeds, as it will reduce camera shake. You’ll need to be ready to shoot when the sun comes up, so it’s wise to get all your gear set up in plenty of time, and this includes your tripod.

Shoot in RAW Format

Shooting in RAW format is best, not only because you have a far higher resolution image than JPEG, which you can post-process without fear of degrading image quality, but because you can fine-tune your white balance in post-processing. Fog and mist can sometimes mess with your white balance settings, but if you don’t want to shoot in RAW, put your camera’s WB on overcast or cloudy.

Exposure Issues

Camera metering systems are often confused by mist and fog, as they are with snow, because fog, mist, and snow are reflective. This fools your camera into thinking that there’s more light than there actually is. The resulting images can often be underexposed, with the white of the fog becoming dark and not at all how you saw it! If you are using an auto-exposure mode, try using some exposure compensation; try it around a full stop more to start with, but experiment.

Find a Focal Point

Find a Focal Point

Because fog and mist lower the contrast and warp perspective, you sometimes need something to add a sense of distance or depth in the shot. Try adding leading lines into the image, such as a fence, hedge, wall or road that leads the eye into the photograph. You can also try framing the fog and mist by using natural features such as tree branches in the foreground of your image.

If you focus on objects that are close to you, the resulting shots will create a sense of distance in the image, as the object in the foreground will have more color and contrast. This saturation and contrast will gradually fall off the further away from the camera the objects in the image are.



You can get some great silhouette shots in mist and fog, by working out where the sun is coming up and putting your subject between you and the sun. If you shoot into the rising sun, your subject will be beautifully backlit against the fog.

Light Rays

Light Rays

Light rays in a shot of a foggy day can really make an image magical, by shining down on an object or part of a path or road. These light rays coming through the fog can be from the sun, or from any artificial light source, as long as it’s at an angle to your camera. You must be quick, though, before the sun burns the fog away.

Final Thoughts

Fog and Mist Photography

Mist and fog photos are wonderfully atmospheric. They can be either sinister and brooding, or light and beautiful, depending on what you are trying to convey. I hope that this article has at least inspired you to set your alarm, get up early, and go take some mist and fog shots!

About the Author
Max Therry‘s passion for photography developed during his time in art school, where he would borrow his friends’ cameras and take photos of everything unusual around him. When this passion gained almost obsession-like traits, he bought his own Sony system and vowed to take as many photos as he could. After about a decade of filling up multiple hard drives, he says it’s time to share his experiences with whoever’s interested.

Here’s a few of my own Fog or mist photos:


Photos of the week can be of a particular subject, or It can be photos of the season, And it can be photos from a photographer. In this case, I, personally have had a request to display my photos. I have been involved in photography for many years, and taught photography classes, been a judge of winning photos at a County Fair, and recently have created this wonderful website you are reading now. Many people don’t know the name behind 123PhotoGo, but, it’s me: Lanny Cottrell. And after all these years, it’s time for me to put up my own photography. I hope you like them.

I am not one who likes winter, but, I love the beauty of a winter day. Especially like this one with the fog in the background.
I really appreciate a good seagull to come and pose for this photo. Taken on Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake.
This is the beautiful cloud formations right after this valley seemed destroyed by East Canyon Winds. The wind roared through this valley at over 70 miles an hour. When things started to calm down, we got these beautiful cloud formations.
I always appreciate a good artist, whether they paint it themselves or take the photos. This wonderful Gentleman was painting a picture of Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone Park. It was a good likeness of the place.
I have been experimenting with night photography with my Samsung Note 20Plus. It seems as this camera takes a picture at night time, the camera automatically brings up the exposure of the dark areas. This photo was taken at night time, and the only light on this photo is from the street lights.
About 20 years ago, when film was at it’s best, I took this photo with Kodachrome film. Found this beautiful rose outside, sprayed a little water on it to give it some texture, and the reproduction to digital was amazing. Film was a good thing in it’s day.
This photo, to me, is one of my best photos of the twilight colors mixed with sunset colors were available at the same time. The Great Salt Lake was a bit full this year, covering even some trees along the shoreline.
Another amazing winter photo of a big tree on a hill. Even a little fog adds to this photo.
I feed the birds around my house. One of the most colorful and unique birds is the “Blue Scrub Jay”. I can put peanuts in a shell, and they can come and even hang upside down to get these peanuts. They do not eat these peanuts immediately. They go and bury these peanuts for availability later on. The magpie birds don’t like to hang upside down on this, so, they don’t bother it much. It’s a feeder meant just for these birds.
A very recent photo of the docked sail ships that make their home at Bear Lake, Utah and Idaho. I had never seen this line-up of boats like this before, and it certainly was the perfect day to capture this unique photo.
“Old Ironsides”. One of the most famous of the steam trains still in existence. This close-up of this train, gives you a feeling of its massiveness.
One of my favorite photos! Why? Not only is it an amazing sunset photo, but, because one of my sons is in the picture.
Everyone has a fall photo that you love. I love this one. Captured in Parley’s Canyon, just east of Salt Lake City. I love it when the clouds add to the photo.
The beautiful Maddison River in Yellowstone National Park.
This sepia toned photo is perfect for this type of photo. An old Pioneer home, still standing, now used probably to store feed for cattle.
Night photography, with fog! The ultimate way to make it happen.
Winter is a tough season, but, it is a beautiful time of the year. The snowstorms can produce such beauty. It’s the only thing I look forward to in the winter.
Another winter scene, with a field in snow, leading into a foggy morning area.
At the top of Logan Canyon coming down onto Bear Lake, Utah. There is a big lake under those clouds, and we are above the clouds. This is when the water is warmer than the air. Temperature at this site was about 16 degrees F. Temperature under the fog: 36 degrees. Water temperature: 39 degrees. That is why the clouds like to hang out where it’s warm.
Waiting for a concert at the famous Tabernacle at Temple Square in Salt Lake City. All of a sudden, “golden Hour” made this beautiful building turn from it’s granite grey color to this golden yellow.
I don’t know if this is fair, but, who cares. These two beautiful bald eagles were posing for me at an zoo for injured animals. So, they couldn’t fly away, but, they sure posed good for me that day.
Everybody loves a good sunset. This photo taken right off my deck. But, the cloud formations was the key to take this photo.
Another photo in the Bear Lake area. The clouds on the mountains and the mix of blue sky was wonderful.
I have had a fascination with the “crooked” quakie aspen trees. I am no tree person, but, it would be interesting to know how it grew this way.
This was taken with slide film about 25 years ago. With the sky and the clouds the way they were, I just had to try a red filter to get this effect.
Now you can see Bear Lake out in the distance. The old range here in front of it, is highlighted by the dormant trees, leading lines take your eyes back to the lake.
Once in a while, during sunset, the clouds are lit up by the sun in a golden color, making the whole valley golden. You can see the mountains are golden, and of course, the clouds are just beautiful. A natural phenomenon here in this valley.
An old broken down shed in the foggy, snowy day.
It’s scary to get so close to a bee while it’s busy. But, in studying up the different macro lenses available, I found out that the telephoto macro lenses will produce the same magnification as the normal macro lens, only you don’t have to be so close to the subject.
Another photo taken at night, at the city park. I love what light and fog do together.

Thank you so much for viewing my photos. If you have any ideas, have any questions about my blog, or this website, feel free to comment below, or send your questions to me at: question.123photogo@gmail.com


Being a serious photographer is hard. You go on a wonderful photo expedition in the fall, get all sorts of beautiful autumn leaves, and then the leaves all fall off the trees, and everything goes brown and ugly before winter comes in. How do you stay motivated throughout the year?

Here is some great tips from Photographer: . Frederick Trovatten. I saw this video and know that he speaks the truth if you want to stay motivated. Please watch the video:

One of the major challenges that artists, including photographers, face is remaining inspired. Actually, it’s quite common to feel unmotivated from time to time. What’s important is that you fight your way back and get the creative juices flowing again. Of course that’s easier said than done. Finding your inspiration in reality can be quite a daunting task. If you’re feeling kind of down lately, we have photographer Frederik Trovatten sharing his tips on how you can remain motivated and inspired as a photographer:

An amazing video on how to stay motivated in Photography

A good place to start finding inspiration is within yourself. Try and remember why you started taking photos. Remember the moment that made you fall in love with photography. Also think of where you wanted to reach with photography. Take a moment and think. Doing so will help you in rejuvenating your interest in photography to some extent.

“I really don’t believe that inspiration will just rain down on you and bless you.”

Even if you don’t feel like it, try forcing yourself to take photos. Schedule a few hours every week purely for photography and make sure that you abide by it.  If you do, you definitely won’t regret it.

Getting a read of how other photographers work and think is another great way of gathering inspiration. You can always go through their work, study them, read books, and watch documentaries as a means of getting inspired.

If you’re really struggling to find motivation as a photographer, we highly recommend that you go through Trovatten’s video in-depth. You’re likely to find a least a couple of ways that best suit you to get inspired.

Here’s some more photos taken at a time you wouldn’t normally want to take pictures:

Driving by the great BEAR LAKE on the border of Utah and Idaho, I found this photo while driving alongside the road. I don’t think I would have taken this photo if I wasn’t searching for photos to take. This is a non-peak time of year, but, if you keep looking you will find some photo opportunities.
This photo taken late at night. I was just going for a walk with the dog, and thought the fence on the side was a good opportunity to get good composition with “leading lines”.
This one photo makes me laugh a little bit, because no one would think to take a picture of their grass. But, how many people would see the frost on the grass and find that an interesting photo? Everybody loves this photo when I post this, because they wish they could have seen it first.

An artist never stops during the year because there is nothing to paint. A good photographer does the same.